Maison Margiela has always been a fashion house that thrives on mystery, rebellion, and redefinition. Now, with Belgian designer Glenn Martens stepping into the role of creative director, the brand is entering an electrifying new era—one that blends deep respect for its past with a fearless leap into the future.
A Long-Awaited Arrival
After months of quiet speculation, Martens’ official appointment was announced earlier this year, filling the void left by John Galliano, who redefined Margiela’s Artisanal line with his theatrical vision. Known for his directional work at Y/Project and his revitalising impact on Diesel, Martens brings a rare combination of avant-garde creativity and street-level relevance.
And if anyone was wondering whether he could handle the weight of Margiela’s legacy—the answer came loud and clear at Paris Couture Week in July 2025.
A Debut That Spoke in Layers
Held at Le Centquatre in Paris—where Margiela himself staged his final show in 2009—Martens’ first Artisanal collection wasn’t just a fashion event. It was an experience. Models emerged in sculptural silhouettes, their faces partially veiled by delicate masks, giving the runway an air of secrecy and reverence. But the garments? Anything but quiet.
He transformed deadstock plastic into metallic gowns, stitched old furniture fabrics into jackets, and sent down corseted looks that looked like wearable armour. One standout was a glossy black bustier assembled from salvaged resin, paired with a lace skirt that shimmered like broken glass.
The finale? A striking lime green look, layered, glinting, and impossible to ignore. A clear message: This is not just a continuation—it’s a new beginning.
Praise from Critics and the Crowd
Fashion critics praised Martens for his smart navigation between homage and innovation. He didn’t copy Galliano or Margiela—he channelled their spirits while making something unmistakably his own. The show was described as “a masterclass in controlled chaos” and “a couture debut that felt both personal and monumental”.
What made it truly powerful, though, was the emotional tone. A soundtrack built around The Smashing Pumpkins’ “Disarm” gave the entire show a haunting resonance. It wasn’t just fashion—it was storytelling.
Doubling Down: Margiela & Diesel
While most creative directors struggle to juggle one role, Martens is managing two. Alongside his new position at Margiela, he continues to lead Diesel, where he’s overseen a brand transformation that speaks directly to Gen Z. Under his watch, Diesel has become raw, relevant, and impossibly cool again.
His dual leadership is rare in today’s fashion industry, but it speaks to his unique talent: he knows how to make fashion both commercially viable and emotionally meaningful.
Craft Meets Consciousness
One of the most refreshing aspects of Martens’ debut is his deep commitment to sustainability. Rather than treat upcycling as a gimmick, he wove it into the very DNA of the collection. From reused plastics to vintage furnishings turned into outerwear, the designs didn’t just look good—they told a story about fashion’s responsibility in a changing world.
The Verdict? A Defining Moment.
Glenn Martens’ arrival at Maison Margiela feels less like a transition and more like a creative rebirth. He’s not just preserving the house’s legacy—he’s evolving it. By blending emotional depth, material experimentation, and a deeply personal vision, Martens has delivered a debut that’s both critically celebrated and culturally resonant.
This is more than a successful first collection. It’s a statement: Maison Margiela is in daring hands—and the future looks bold, beautiful, and brilliantly strange.
